Deep Tech Innovators · 02
Silk Crystal: From silk protein to beauty materials
Silk fibroin kept as a network, not cut into peptides
Silk Science by Dr. Garbeen Yim, since 1999
From cocoon to material
A closer look, one scale at a time
From the cocoon down to the microstructure, and back up to the material used in a formula.
01Silk cocoonsSericin is removed, leaving fibroin protein.
Photograph
02Silk fibersSilk fibers under the electron microscope: smooth, continuous filaments.
Electron microscope · 1,000×
03Silk Crystal networkFibroin fibrils reorganized into a porous three-dimensional network.
Electron microscope
04Silk Crystal gelWhite to ivory gel, used at 3–15% in emulsions.
Photograph
Deep Tech Innovator · Lead researcher
He purified nature’s molecules.
Then he gave silk a new structure.
Dr. Garbeen YimPh.D. Biochemical Engineering, Seoul National University · CEO, FINECO LTD.
Dr. Yim trained in chemical technology and biochemical engineering and worked in industrial fermentation research. That experience led to Silk Science, which dates from 1999 and now covers Silk Crystal, silk–gold complexes and silk microcapsules.
The idea in one line
Silk fibroin kept as a network, not cut into peptides.
Silk ScienceThe idea behind Dr. Garbeen Yim's research line · FINECO LTD.“The silk materials on the market were mostly hydrolyzed silk and sericin. I felt it was not real silk any more. It was already broken.”
- 1983–93B.S. (1983), M.S. (1986) and Ph.D. (1993), Seoul National University
- 1993–99Managed industrial biotechnology research
- 1999Silk Science begins: silk technology and materials
- 2012Silk Crystal mask technology featured in Beauty Cosmedica
- 2026MOU with TIBD for the Thai and ASEAN markets
Research lines from Dr. Yim's team
Silk Science
Silk Crystal: fibroin fibrils reorganized into a three-dimensional network.
Silk–Gold nanotechnology
Bio-conjugation of silk with gold colloid.
Microencapsulation
Silk Crystal microcapsules designed to carry and protect sensitive actives.
Mushroom Science
Fine Mushroom HA, a polysaccharide from snow fungus (Tremella fuciformis).
Contact the research team directlyFINECO LTD.
Technical data, samples and starter formulations. Gangwon Technopark #201, Shinbuk-ro 61-20, Shinbuk-eup, Chuncheon, Gangwon, Korea 24206.
Email · Garbeen Yim, Ph.D.[email protected]
In ThailandContact via the TIBD team
Research team websiteNot available yet
The technology
Silk Crystal explained
Silk fibroin kept as a network, not cut into peptides.
FINECO describes it this way: the fibroin protein is not cut into small peptides. Its fibrils are separated and rebuilt into a new three-dimensional network, a stable, water-compatible gel that FINECO says keeps more of silk's properties than hydrolyzed silk.
Fibroin not cut into small peptidesNew 3D fibroin networkWater-compatible gel
Silk Crystal at three scalesSilk Crystal gel (top), its network under the electron microscope (left) and an artist's impression of a protein chain, not to scale (right)
How three cosmetic silks compareAs FINECO compares them. Not tested side by side by TIBD.
| Hydrolyzed silk | Sericin | Silk Crystal | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Silk protein | Fibroin cut into small peptides | The cocoon’s water-soluble outer protein | Fibroin kept as a porous 3D network |
| In water | Dissolves completely | Dissolves | Swells into a gel and holds water |
| Oil, without an emulsifier | Not typical | Not typical | Held in the network (FINECO tests) |
| On skin or hair | No lasting film | Film washes off easily | Forms a film |
| Usual role in a formula | Additive | Additive, mostly in hair care | Base material |
Silk amino acids are smaller still and, like hydrolyzed silk, do not form a film (FINECO). Performance against other raw materials needs testing under the same conditions.
The Silk Science family
Six materials from Silk Science
Six silk materials from Silk Science, the research line Dr. Yim started in 1999, for skin care and hair care.
- 013–15%Silk Crystal
White to ivory gel: silk fibroin fibrils reorganized into a three-dimensional network.
0296.5%Silk Crystal Hydrogel MaskSilk hydrogel sheet, about 96.5% Silk Crystal. The sheet is made of the silk material itself, not a fabric soaked in essence.
03Hair · in developmentSilk Crystal VeilThree-part silk system for hair care, in development: Silk Crystal forms the film skeleton, liquid fibroin the continuous film, and smaller silk proteins fill the gaps.
04Gold 0.02%Silk Crystal Gold ComplexA hybrid of Silk Crystal and colloidal gold designed for skin care.
05Gold > 0.1%Silk Peptide Gold ComplexFully water-soluble complex of silk peptides and colloidal gold: a transparent purple base for serums and essences.
- 06DeliverySilk Crystal Microcapsules
Microcapsules designed to carry and protect sensitive active ingredients.
- INCI of Silk Crystal
- Fibroin, Water
- Appearance
- White to ivory gel
- Recommended level in emulsions
- 3–15%
- Limitation
- Not suited to clear formulas
Joint development
Silk science meets Thai botanical actives
Connecting the silk technology of Dr. Garbeen Yim's team with TIBD's Thai botanical actives, to co-develop raw-material systems, formulas and know-how that can grow into intellectual property (IP).
01 · In joint developmentXanthones from mangosteen pericarpXanthones · Garcinia mangostana
Co-designed with the silk system to assess dispersion, stability of the active and compatibility in formulas.
02 · In joint developmentPolymethoxyflavones from black gingerPolymethoxyflavones · Kaempferia parviflora
Studied together with the silk system to design the raw-material format and formula, and to assess retention of the active and usability.
Next flagship activesSelected from the TIBD and Zubb Biotech extract libraries · data from the Zubb Biotech 2026 catalog · plant images are AI-generated concepts, not extract samples
03Zubb Biotech · ZBT-0028
Anthocyanin from pink lotusNelumbo nucifera- Marker compound
- Anthocyanin (cyanidin-3-glucoside)
- Format
- Powder
Data with Silk Crystal: none yet
04Zubb Biotech · ZBT-0036
Anthocyanin from mao berryAntidesma spp.- Marker compound
- Total anthocyanins
- Format
- Powder · THAI GI
Data with Silk Crystal: none yet
05TIBD · Zubb Biotech · ZBT-0004
Curcuminoids from turmericCurcuma longa- Marker compound
- Total curcuminoids ≥90%
- Format
- Powder · THAI GI
Data with Silk Crystal: none yet
06TIBD · Zubb Biotech · ZBT-0100
Triterpenes from centellaCentella asiatica- Marker compound
- Triterpenes (asiaticoside) 2%
- Format
- Nano / encapsulated
Data with Silk Crystal: none yet
Step 1Design the combined system
Select the silk structure, the form of the active and the formula composition to fit the intended use.
Step 2Build comparative evidence
Study compatibility, stability and test results of the combined system against each component alone.
Step 3Grow it into joint IP
Build know-how on the material system, the formula and the data set, to differentiate raw materials and products.
Synergy is the aim of joint development. Any enhanced effect must be proven by testing the specific system.
Research and evidence
What the evidence shows so far, and what it does not yet show
Material-structure data, laboratory results and formula tests in volunteers are presented separately, so it is clear what question each level of evidence answers.
3%Silk Crystal in the test cream
28days, study duration
40volunteers
These figures describe the study design, not its results. Endpoints and statistics are pending review of the full report.
Under the electron microscope the silk-fibroin sheet is a dense, porous network. Water-holding figures are not quoted here: FINECO documents give values from more than 20 to 50 times its weight, so no single figure is used.
A process for producing silk fibroin powder, filed in 1999 and granted in 2002; the patent has since lapsed. Cited as research history, not as confirmation that today's Silk Crystal is protected Read the referenced patent record.
Described by FINECO as a self-shrinking silk hydrogel mask of about 96.5% Silk Crystal: not a sheet soaked in essence, the mask itself is a micro-network protein structure. FINECO lists four intended functions: moisturizing, a tightening feel as the sheet contracts, absorbing excess oil and cooling. These have not been tested by TIBD.
Laboratory data: Silk Crystal and Silk Crystal Gold ComplexLaboratory data from FINECO · not product claims
Full test reports · Not available yet, to be added
Image gallery
Tap or hover a thumbnail to enlarge
Develop with TIBD
Turn a business brief into a testable development plan
Three ways to work with TIBD and Dr. Garbeen Yim's team. Choose the route that fits your brief.
Route 01Intellectual property development
Co-develop Silk Crystal and FINECO's silk materials with Thai botanical actives, with a defined test plan and an agreed scope of rights in the results.
Route 02Raw materials and products
Ask about available raw materials and products, with specifications, quality documents and guidance for formula trials.
Route 03OEM manufacturing in Korea
Assess manufacturing in Korea against the brand brief, confirming product category, factory, documents and terms project by project.
How a project runsTypical sequence · scope, timing and cost are agreed in writing for each project
- 1Brief
Product type, target market, intended claims and price point, discussed with the TIBD team.
- 2Material match
Choose from the six silk materials and request specifications and samples through TIBD.
- 3Formula trials
Prototype formulas, including combinations with Thai botanical actives where the brief calls for them.
- 4Test plan
Stability, safety and any claim tests, planned against the cosmetic rules of the target market.
- 5Scale-up
Move to production through raw-material supply, OEM in Korea, or a joint-IP agreement.
What you receive
- A written scope and test plan for your brief
- Material documents and samples, subject to availability from FINECO
- Prototype formulas and trial results from each round
- One contact point in Thailand for the whole project
Have a brief ready?
Send the product idea and target market. The TIBD team replies with the next step.
“I am more interested in co-development. When the local market already has a need and we apply our existing technology or ideas to it, we can create a new project and new value. Not just selling and buying.”
Applications
Start with the product brief, not the ingredient name
Three product groups where the material and its mechanism are already described. Each still needs a brief and tests of its own.
Skin care
Silk Crystal gel for creams and lotions. FINECO describes water and oil being held in the fibroin network. For clear serums and essences, FINECO offers Silk Peptide Gold Complex.
Read in depth
No articles yet · To be addedHydrogel masks
A self-shrinking silk hydrogel sheet of about 96.5% Silk Crystal. FINECO lists four intended functions: moisturizing, a tightening feel as the sheet contracts, absorbing excess oil and cooling. Not yet tested by TIBD.
Read in depth
No articles yet · To be addedHair care
Silk Crystal Veil, in development: liquid in the bottle, film on the hair. Liquid fibroin deposits on the fiber and forms a β-sheet film as it dries and is heated, which FINECO describes as water-resistant. Rinse-off and leave-on formats planned.
Read in depth
No articles yet · To be addedHow Silk Crystal Veil forms a film on the hair
1Before
Hair with lifted cuticle edges
Raised scale edges · uneven surface
2Application
Three silks are applied together
Network frames · liquid fibroin spreads · small proteins fill surface gaps
3After drying and heat
A β-sheet film forms over the surface
A film FINECO describes as water-resistant
- Silk CrystalPorous β-sheet network: the film skeleton
- Liquid fibroinForms the continuous film
- Hydrolyzed silkSmaller silk proteins that fill surface gaps
- In the bottleDissolved fibroin (random coil), kept stable by polyols and trehalose
- ApplicationDeposits on the fiber
- Drying and heatWater evaporates and the silk concentrates
- Film formationβ-sheet (Silk II-type) structure increases as the film dries and is heated: a film FINECO describes as water-resistant
Product claims must be checked against local cosmetic regulations before use.
Questions before a project starts
Before you start
Have a project-specific question?
Bring your product goals to the TIBD team.
Talk to the TIBD team →How is Silk Crystal different from ordinary silk protein?
FINECO describes conventional cosmetic silks (hydrolyzed silk, sericin and silk amino acids) as water-soluble. Silk Crystal keeps silk fibroin as a porous three-dimensional network instead of breaking it down. Performance comparisons with other raw materials still need testing under the same conditions.
Does the EU microplastics restriction affect silk ingredients?
Regulation (EU) 2023/2055 restricts intentionally added synthetic polymer microparticles. For cosmetics it applies in stages: microbeads from 17 October 2023, rinse-off products from 17 October 2027, leave-on products from 17 October 2029, and make-up, lip and nail products from 17 October 2035. Polymers formed in nature that are not chemically modified fall outside the definition. Whether a given Silk Crystal grade qualifies should be confirmed with FINECO’s documentation and your own regulatory review for each finished formula.
How does Silk Crystal Veil stay on the hair?
FINECO describes three silks working together. Liquid fibroin is kept stable in the bottle by polyols and trehalose, then drying and blow-dryer heat convert it into a β-sheet film built around the Silk Crystal network, which the document describes as water-resistant. Wash resistance in your own formula should be confirmed by testing.
Can raw-material test results be used to support our formula?
They can inform formula design and the test plan, but they do not replace results for the finished formula, which depend on concentration, composition and method of use.
Is it notified as a cosmetic in Thailand yet?
Notification applies to finished cosmetic products, not to raw materials. Each product needs its own notification, responsible person and formula check before sale; the TIBD team can advise on the steps.
How does OEM manufacturing start?
It starts with the product category, target users, required volume and cost target. The team then assesses factories, requirements and a sampling plan project by project.
Who owns jointly developed IP?
Background technology, new results, rights of use and market territory must be agreed in each project's contract before work begins.
How is synergy assessed in joint development?
By comparing the active alone, the silk system alone and the combined system, at comparable active levels and conditions, before concluding that there is a synergistic effect.
News and articles
Read more about Silk Crystal
Interview · 2026InterviewWhat Silk Crystal is: an interview with Dr. Garbeen YimFrom fermentation engineer to giving silk a new structure, and why he chose to co-develop with a team in Thailand.
Interview recorded 9 Oct 2026Read the interview
News · Memorandum of Understanding (MOU)TIBD Signs Strategic Partnership with FINECO Advancing Natural Silk Protein Innovation into the Thai and ASEAN MarketsSigned to develop silk protein innovation and advanced biomaterial technology and bring them to cosmetics and personal care products in Thailand and ASEAN.
Signed 4 Mar 2026 · BangkokRead the news
News · Invention exhibition in ChinaTIBD and Its Affiliates Win 5 Awards at IEI 2026 in GuangzhouThe entry built on silk fibroin technology received a bronze medal and an NRCT Honorable Mention at the 12th International Exhibition of Inventions.
21–23 Aug 2026 · GuangzhouRead the newsPress · 2012Press · Beauty Cosmedica“Smooth as Silk”: Silk Crystal as a breakthrough in facial mask technologyTrade-magazine feature on silk protein and the Silk Crystal hydrogel mask.
September 2012 · page 68Print feature · not available onlineCo-develop from your business brief
“I always wanted a partner who understands the technology, not one who just buys and sells.”
Dr. Garbeen Yim
Have a product brief built on silk?
Bring your product goals to the TIBD team.
Technology ownerDr. Garbeen Yim · FINECO LTD.
Silk Science: Silk Crystal, silk–gold complexes and microencapsulation.
Business development partner in ThailandTIBD Co., Ltd.
Thai botanical actives, formulation development and route to market.
TIBD Co., Ltd. · Deep Tech Innovators / 02Photographs and figures courtesy of FINECO LTD., except plant illustrations (AI-generated)